By now, most of us have grown tired of flashy, conspicuous logos; we are at the juncture where “normcore” is a movement, and we very much prefer our luxury understated.
So, to keep one step ahead of the curve, we’d like to introduce you to five designers whom we believe are shaping the future of fashion with their subtle ingenuity. Nonetheless vogue and unparalleled in quality, surely you’ll want to be the first to get your hands on them!
1. Mary Katrantzou
“Digital print allows me to experiment with print in a way that fine art and other methods could not.” – Mary Katrantzou
With an interior designer for a mother and a father who worked in textile design, it comes as no flummox that the Greek goddess carved her niche in printed textiles and applied design. An alumna of the prestigious art school Central Saint Martins, which bred some of the finest designers to grace the couture community, Mary Katrantzou is the latest to emerge.
When her designs first boomed into the fashion scene, it exploded all over the streets; everyone from socialites to celebrities to influencers were wearing a piece of Mary Katrantzou’s fabrications. Her employment of digital print is exceptionally well-received, and she takes pride in her flair to assemble trompe-l’œil, which is put to good use in flattering the curves of the woman carrying it.
We say Mary Katrantzou will be enjoying meteoric popularity for a while now. With a forward-looking vision and futuristic aesthetics, the waves she’s causing on the fashion radar are not receding.
2. Maison Martin Margiela
“Anybody who’s aware of what life is in a contemporary world is influenced by (Martin) Margiela.” –Marc Jacobs
The Belgian designer is best described as iconoclastic. In his solitary movement to reject mass media culture, he’s hardly photographed or interviewed, enshrouding the eponymous label in an enigmatic cloud.
Rebelling against the conventions of couture and luxury twenty years back, the brand first turned heads with its concept of deconstruction. Fashionistas in the twentieth century took some time to adjust to grunge luxe, but in contemporary times, it is near impossible to imagine our world without the sleek eccentricity of raw finishes, inside-out seams and oversized proportions.
Today, the legacy of Martin Margiela is carried forth by a faceless team, under the creative direction of John Galliano. Their current unique approach to modern elegance is extolled by many, and there is no doubt their creative conceptualisations will only continue to evolve into the future of fashion.
“People always ask me why I’m still doing sequins but they are no less valid than a brand whose signature is trench coats or digital prints.” – Ashish
At the mere age of twelve, Ashish Gupta was already certain that fashion was the industry for him – and aren’t we glad he followed through with that dream. Another alumnus of Central Saint Martins, the Indian designer often draws inspiration from his heritage, and sequin pieces have somewhat become his trademark.
Even though sequins are constantly regarded as cheap embellishments, Ashish stuck to his guns. His conviction is that sequins are a form of art, and they require hypertechnical rhythms to be worked surgically into respective fabrics.
Revolutionising sequins for day wear and bestowing everyone with an equal opportunity to sparkle beyond the red carpet, Ashish is not just the future – he’s bringing it to us.
4. Junya Watanabe
It is always interesting to watch a butterfly spread its wing; therefore, when Junya Watanabe started his eponymous collection beyond Commes des Garçon – where he cut his teeth as a patternmaker – all eyes were on him.
With an inexplicable fondness for synthetic and technologically advanced textiles and fabrics, Watanabe is famous for his inclination towards ingenious and futuristic designs. He is often nicknamed the “techno couture” designer, delivering cutting edge garbs that are enhanced by some kind of technological innovations, from waterproofing to glow-in-the-dark fibre.
It comes as no surprise then, that Junya Watanabe will be a key player in the future paradigm of fashion. As technology continues to advance with an exponential momentum, we wait patiently (but not for long) for Watanabe to conjure the next big thing with his brilliant mind.
5. Giancarlo Petriglia
“I want to personally guarantee the quality of the product, dedicating my love and promise of success to every piece of my collection, the products and leathers.” – Giancarlo Petriglia
The newest among all of the above-mentioned brands, Giancarlo Petriglia is a namesake helmed by the Italian designer. It might not be the most familiar of fashion labels, but it’s probably because the brand exudes a mythological presence per se.
The logo sees two parallel griffins, guardians of “gold and the most precious things in the world”, which reinforces the concept of preciousness, a core ethic of the brand identity. Each Giancarlo Petriglia bag is treated with equal expertise, every one of them skilfully assembled and produced by the most talented artisans in Palermo, Sicily.
Sporting exuberant designs and colours that sometimes resemble adorable mythical creatures, Giancarlo Petriglia’s handbags are future legends of the sartorial scene. Recognised and waxed lyrical by industry players, be sure to keep an eye on this space for said designer.